COLORWAVE COTTON SPORT SOCKS
By Sara Baldwin ©2004
Sara’s Colorwave Yarn is specially dyed so that the colors will stack nicely into zig-zaggy vertical or
slowly spiraling bands as the sock is knit, provided you follow this pattern.
GAUGE: 7 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch (directions for 8 stitches per inch are in parantheses) To
determine your gauge: Cast on 30 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) for about an
inch. Measure the width of your swatch. Your gauge is equal to the number of stitches (30) divided by the
swatch width in inches. In general, fingering weight yarn will give a gauge of about 8 stitches per inch, and
sport weight about 7 stitches per inch.
SIZE: Women’s medium, about shoe size 6-9 (length adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT LENGTH: 9 ½ inches (adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE: 8 inches. Please note that if you need to adjust the circumference of
the sock, the colors will not stack in the manner of the photo, although you can still use the yarn and
pattern.
MATERIALS: Double pointed knitting needles size 1-2 (0-1) (you may want to adjust the needle size up or
down to get the color effects you desire). One-quarter inch elastic, about 24 inches, or elastic thread.*
CUFF: With double pointed needles, loosely cast on 56 (64) stitches. Join, being careful not to twist. Work
in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for about two inches. If the colors don’t puddle up as you desire,
proceed as follows: if the color bands slant to the left, try going up a needle size or two (it won’t be
noticeable). If the color bands slant to the right, try going down a needle size.
HEEL FLAP: Arrange your stitches on the needles so that there are 28 (32) stitches on one needle, and
the other two have 14 (16) each. These 28 (32) stitches will be worked back and forth for the heel flap.
The other two needles will become inactive until you start the gusset.
Row 1: *S1, k1*: 28 (32) stitches, turn.
Row 2: S1, p across, turn.
Repeat these two rows 36 times, so there are 18 slip-stitch rows. Next row: S1, k across, turn. Next row:
repeat row 2. Next row: S1, k across, turn.
TURN HEEL:
Row 1: S1, p15 (17), p2tog, p1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 2: S1, k5, ssk, k1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 3: S1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 4: S1, k7, ssk, k1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 5: S1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 6: S1, k9, ssk, k1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 7: S1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 8: S1, k11, ssk, k1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 9: S1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
Row 10: S1, k13, ssk, k1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
If your gauge is 7 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, turn: 0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
If your gauge is 8 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, k1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 13: S1, p16, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 14: S1, k16, ssk :0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
These 16 (18) stitches are now at the center (base) of the heel. Combine the waiting 28 (32) instep (top of
the foot) stitches onto one needle. Slide 8 (9) of the 16 (18) heel stitches onto your free needle. The join
between these two needles becomes the new center of the round.
GUSSET: With the first needle, pick up and knit 21 stitches along the edge of the heel flap, for 29 (30)
total. Knit across the 28 (32) instep stitches (second needle). Then pick up and knit 21 stitches along the
other edge of the heel flap, and combine and knit the 8 (9) remaining heel stitches, for a total of 29 (30)
stitches (third needle).
Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the needle, k2tog, k1.
Second needle: knit across. Third needle: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat the decrease round and the even round until 16 stitches remain on the first and third needles.
There should be 56 (64) stitches total when all gusset decreases are completed.
FOOT: Knit even for a total of 7 ½ inches, or desired length (the sock should come about to the base of
your big toe).
TOE: Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: Knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Second
needle: K1, ssk, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Third needle: K1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: Knit around even.
Repeat these two rounds until there are 7 stitches on the first and third needles, and 14 stitches on the
second needle. Then skip Round 2 and do another decrease round. Knit across the 6 stitches of the first
needle, and combine the stitches with the third. Cut the yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread the tail in a
yarn needle. Graft the toe stitches together, and fasten off the loose ends.
To finish: Cut the elastic to fit your ankle, overlap ends and sew into a loop. Fold down the top of the sock
to form a casing, and loosely sew it over the elastic.
*As an alternate cuff, you can hold elastic thread together with your working yarn. Working in rounds,
garter stitch (knit a round, purl a round) for about one-half inch. Drop the elastic thread, and continue in
stockinette stitch with your working yarn for another inch.
Click HERE to see how my stretchy sock yarn knits up with this pattern.
By Sara Baldwin ©2004
Sara’s Colorwave Yarn is specially dyed so that the colors will stack nicely into zig-zaggy vertical or
slowly spiraling bands as the sock is knit, provided you follow this pattern.
GAUGE: 7 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch (directions for 8 stitches per inch are in parantheses) To
determine your gauge: Cast on 30 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row) for about an
inch. Measure the width of your swatch. Your gauge is equal to the number of stitches (30) divided by the
swatch width in inches. In general, fingering weight yarn will give a gauge of about 8 stitches per inch, and
sport weight about 7 stitches per inch.
SIZE: Women’s medium, about shoe size 6-9 (length adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT LENGTH: 9 ½ inches (adjustable)
FINISHED FOOT CIRCUMFERENCE: 8 inches. Please note that if you need to adjust the circumference of
the sock, the colors will not stack in the manner of the photo, although you can still use the yarn and
pattern.
MATERIALS: Double pointed knitting needles size 1-2 (0-1) (you may want to adjust the needle size up or
down to get the color effects you desire). One-quarter inch elastic, about 24 inches, or elastic thread.*
CUFF: With double pointed needles, loosely cast on 56 (64) stitches. Join, being careful not to twist. Work
in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for about two inches. If the colors don’t puddle up as you desire,
proceed as follows: if the color bands slant to the left, try going up a needle size or two (it won’t be
noticeable). If the color bands slant to the right, try going down a needle size.
HEEL FLAP: Arrange your stitches on the needles so that there are 28 (32) stitches on one needle, and
the other two have 14 (16) each. These 28 (32) stitches will be worked back and forth for the heel flap.
The other two needles will become inactive until you start the gusset.
Row 1: *S1, k1*: 28 (32) stitches, turn.
Row 2: S1, p across, turn.
Repeat these two rows 36 times, so there are 18 slip-stitch rows. Next row: S1, k across, turn. Next row:
repeat row 2. Next row: S1, k across, turn.
TURN HEEL:
Row 1: S1, p15 (17), p2tog, p1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 2: S1, k5, ssk, k1, turn: 9 (11) stitches remain unworked
Row 3: S1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 4: S1, k7, ssk, k1, turn: 7 (9) unworked
Row 5: S1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 6: S1, k9, ssk, k1, turn: 5 (7) unworked
Row 7: S1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 8: S1, k11, ssk, k1, turn: 3(5) unworked
Row 9: S1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
Row 10: S1, k13, ssk, k1, turn: 1 (3) unworked
If your gauge is 7 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, turn: 0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
If your gauge is 8 stitches per inch:
Row 11: S1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 12: S1, k15, ssk, k1, turn: 1 unworked
Row 13: S1, p16, p2tog, turn: 0 unworked
Row 14: S1, k16, ssk :0 unworked DO NOT TURN!
These 16 (18) stitches are now at the center (base) of the heel. Combine the waiting 28 (32) instep (top of
the foot) stitches onto one needle. Slide 8 (9) of the 16 (18) heel stitches onto your free needle. The join
between these two needles becomes the new center of the round.
GUSSET: With the first needle, pick up and knit 21 stitches along the edge of the heel flap, for 29 (30)
total. Knit across the 28 (32) instep stitches (second needle). Then pick up and knit 21 stitches along the
other edge of the heel flap, and combine and knit the 8 (9) remaining heel stitches, for a total of 29 (30)
stitches (third needle).
Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the needle, k2tog, k1.
Second needle: knit across. Third needle: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat the decrease round and the even round until 16 stitches remain on the first and third needles.
There should be 56 (64) stitches total when all gusset decreases are completed.
FOOT: Knit even for a total of 7 ½ inches, or desired length (the sock should come about to the base of
your big toe).
TOE: Round 1 (decrease round): First needle: Knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Second
needle: K1, ssk, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, k2tog, k1. Third needle: K1, ssk, k to end.
Round 2: Knit around even.
Repeat these two rounds until there are 7 stitches on the first and third needles, and 14 stitches on the
second needle. Then skip Round 2 and do another decrease round. Knit across the 6 stitches of the first
needle, and combine the stitches with the third. Cut the yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread the tail in a
yarn needle. Graft the toe stitches together, and fasten off the loose ends.
To finish: Cut the elastic to fit your ankle, overlap ends and sew into a loop. Fold down the top of the sock
to form a casing, and loosely sew it over the elastic.
*As an alternate cuff, you can hold elastic thread together with your working yarn. Working in rounds,
garter stitch (knit a round, purl a round) for about one-half inch. Drop the elastic thread, and continue in
stockinette stitch with your working yarn for another inch.
Click HERE to see how my stretchy sock yarn knits up with this pattern.
